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Gardening in North Carolina: zones, frost dates and when to plant

North Carolina gardeners get three growing seasons, from cool spring through hot, humid summer to a productive fall. Timing shifts across the mountains, Piedmont and Coastal Plain, and nearly every native soil needs lime.

Hardiness zones in North Carolina

Cities in North Carolina

CityZoneTypical last frostTypical first frost
Charlotte8aMar 30Nov 3
Raleigh8aMar 28Nov 8
Greensboro8aMar 30Nov 5
Durham8aMar 31Nov 4
Winston-Salem8aMar 30Nov 5
Fayetteville8aMar 30Nov 10
Cary8aMar 31Nov 4
Wilmington8bMar 19Nov 20
High Point8aMar 30Nov 5
Concord8aApr 1Nov 2
Greenville8aMar 27Nov 8
Asheville7bApr 6Oct 31
Gastonia8aMar 24Nov 9
Apex8aMar 27Nov 8
Jacksonville8aMar 23Nov 16
Huntersville8aApr 1Nov 2
Chapel Hill8aMar 31Nov 3
Kannapolis8aApr 1Nov 2
Burlington8aApr 1Nov 2
Wake Forest8aMar 28Nov 8
Mooresville8aApr 9Oct 28
Rocky Mount8aApr 1Nov 5
Holly Springs8aMar 27Nov 8

Three regions, one long season

NOAA’s state climate summary describes North Carolina as humid, with very warm summers and moderately cold winters. Three landforms divide it: the Appalachian Mountains in the west, the Piedmont plateau in the middle and the Coastal Plain in the east. Elevation runs from sea level to more than 6,000 feet, the largest range of any state east of the Mississippi. Average annual temperatures differ by more than 20°F between the highest peaks and the coast. The mountains also partly block cold air from the Midwest, which softens winters.

NC State Extension builds its planting guidance on the Piedmont and adjusts from there. The Extension Gardener Handbook says fall planting dates can run 10 to 20 days earlier in western North Carolina and 7 to 14 days later on the Coastal Plain. The soils differ as well. In the Piedmont and mountains, soil forms from weathered bedrock called saprolite. The handbook contrasts the well-drained Cecil soils typical of the Piedmont with poorly drained Coastal Plain soils such as the Coxville series.

Planting by season, not just by frost

NC State Extension’s Central North Carolina Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs is built around three seasons. Spring and fall have short days and cool temperatures, and summer has long days and heat. Cool-season crops tolerate some frost. Warm-season crops belong outdoors only in frost-free months, and even they pause during heat waves in the mid 90s °F. Freezes, high heat, humidity and strong sun can all stress plants in central North Carolina. The calendar’s answer is to choose varieties that tolerate temperature extremes, plant at times that avoid them, or protect the plants.

Key points from the calendar:

  • Plantings set in the middle of each recommended window do best. Success drops toward either end.
  • If you grow your own transplants, start them six to eight weeks before the transplant date and harden them off gradually.
  • Spun-woven row covers let you start earlier in spring and keep going later into fall. Plastic mulch brings crops in earlier.
  • Use planting dates to avoid pests. Delay fall planting until whiteflies decline with cooler weather, and delay spring planting until the soil warms to cut fungal and bacterial disease.
  • Replant every few weeks within a window to stretch the harvest.

Use the frost dates for your city above to find where each window falls for you.

The fall garden

North Carolina’s fall garden is a real second season. The handbook names August as the main fall planting month. In the Piedmont, crops that take 60 to 80 days go in around August 1, and turnips and other fast greens can wait until about September 1. Suitable fall crops include beets, beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, leaf lettuce, mustard, radishes, rutabagas, spinach, turnips, southern peas and sugar snap peas. Cold-hardy collards, kale, turnip greens, spinach and Swiss chard planted in fall may survive the winter and grow again in early spring.

The handbook also cautions that insects and diseases can be worse in fall, because populations build through spring and summer. Direct-seeding broccoli and collards in late summer works only if you can keep the seedlings moist. Without irrigation, buy transplants instead.

Heat, humidity and pests

Summer heat makes cool-season crops bolt and turn bitter. The handbook suggests shade cloth or taller crops to stretch them into summer. Late summer is when cool-season crops go back in for fall. The calendar recommends disease-resistant varieties and explains the label codes: V for Verticillium wilt, F for Fusarium wilt, N for nematodes and T for tobacco mosaic virus. Codes vary by seed company, so check each company’s key. For specific variety picks, NC State points gardeners to its local Extension agents and Extension Master Gardener volunteers.

NOAA notes that summers from 2005 to 2020 were the warmest on record for the state, with the most very warm nights coming in 2010 to 2020.

Fix the pH first

The handbook is blunt about soil. North Carolina soils are acidic, like nearly all soils in the Southeast, and unlimed native soil often tests pH 4.5 to 5.5. Most vegetables do best at 6.0 to 6.5. Lime reacts slowly, so a fall application can correct acidity before spring planting. Sandy and heavy clay soils both improve fastest with repeated additions of organic matter. Work 2 to 3 inches of rotted leaves or compost in each spring and again after the fall harvest, or plant winter rye, ryegrass or wheat as a green manure.

NC State Extension sends gardeners to the NC Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services for soil tests. Forms and sample boxes are available at any county Cooperative Extension center. Test before planting and every two to three years after. The handbook calls inexpensive home kits unreliable.

A typical North Carolina planting calendar

For a place with North Carolina's middle frost dates (last frost around March 31, first frost around November 4). Use a city page or your ZIP code for dates where you live.

  1. January

    Start indoors: broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, leeks, onions, oregano, parsley, peppers, petunias, ranunculus, rosemary, snapdragons

  2. February

    Start indoors: basil, black-eyed susans, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, celery, chives, cilantro, collard greens, eggplants, ginger, leeks, lettuce, marigolds, nasturtiums, oregano, parsley, peppers, petunias, ranunculus, rosemary, sage, snapdragons, spinach, swiss chard, tomatoes

    Plant or sow outdoors: black-eyed susans, blueberries, garlic, grapes, grass seed, hollyhocks, kale, onions, peas, poppies, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, turnips, wildflowers

  3. March

    Start indoors: basil, cantaloupes, cilantro, cosmos, cucumbers, marigolds, nasturtiums, okra, pumpkins, ranunculus, tomatoes, watermelons, winter squash, zucchini

    Plant or sow outdoors: asparagus, beets, black-eyed susans, blackberries, blueberries, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, chives, cilantro, collard greens, dahlias, dill, figs, garden mums, garlic, gladioli, grapes, grass seed, green onions, hollyhocks, kale, kentucky bluegrass, lavenders, leeks, lettuce, lilies, marigolds, mints, nasturtiums, onions, oregano, parsley, peas, perennial ryegrass, petunias, poppies, potatoes, radishes, ranunculus, raspberries, rhubarb, rosemary, roses, sage, snapdragons, spinach, strawberries, sunflowers, sweet corn, sweet peas, swiss chard, tall fescue, thyme, turnips, wildflowers

  4. April

    Start indoors: cosmos, cucumbers, okra, pumpkins, winter squash, zinnias, zucchini

    Plant or sow outdoors: asparagus, basil, cantaloupes, chives, cilantro, cucumbers, dahlias, dill, eggplants, garden mums, ginger, gladioli, grapes, green beans, green onions, kentucky bluegrass, lavenders, lettuce, lilies, marigolds, mints, nasturtiums, oregano, parsley, peppers, perennial ryegrass, petunias, pumpkins, ranunculus, rosemary, sage, spinach, sunflowers, sweet corn, sweet peas, swiss chard, tall fescue, thyme, tomatoes, watermelons, winter squash, zucchini

  5. May

    Start indoors: zinnias

    Plant or sow outdoors: bermudagrass, celery, centipedegrass, cosmos, green onions, okra, peanuts, st. augustinegrass, sweet potatoes, zinnias, zoysiagrass

  6. June

    Plant or sow outdoors: bermudagrass, centipedegrass, st. augustinegrass, zinnias, zoysiagrass

  7. July

    Plant for fall: brussels sprouts, peppers, potatoes, sweet corn, tomatoes

  8. August

    Plant for fall: bearded irises, beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, collard greens, cucumbers, green beans, lettuce, peas, peppers, radishes, snapdragons, spinach, sweet corn, swiss chard, turnips, zucchini

  9. September

    Plant for fall: azaleas, bearded irises, beets, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, clematis, coneflowers, crocuses, daffodils, daylilies, grass seed, hostas, hydrangeas, kale, kentucky bluegrass, lettuce, lilies, ornamental alliums, peonies, perennial ryegrass, radishes, roses, saffron, snapdragons, spinach, swiss chard, tall fescue, tulips, turnips

  10. October

    Plant for fall: crocuses, daffodils, daylilies, grass seed, hostas, hyacinths, kale, kentucky bluegrass, lilies, ornamental alliums, peonies, perennial ryegrass, radishes, saffron, tall fescue, tulips

  11. November

    Plant for fall: crocuses, daffodils, garlic, hyacinths, lilies, ornamental alliums, peonies, tulips

  12. December

    Start indoors: onions

Questions

When should I plant a fall vegetable garden in North Carolina?

NC State Extension calls August the main fall planting month. In the Piedmont, crops that take 60 to 80 days go in around August 1, and quick turnips and greens can wait until about September 1. Plant 10 to 20 days earlier in the west and 7 to 14 days later on the Coastal Plain.

Do North Carolina gardens need lime?

Usually. NC State Extension notes that the state's soils are naturally acidic, often pH 4.5 to 5.5 if never limed, while most vegetables do best at 6.0 to 6.5. Lime works slowly, so apply it in fall based on a soil test.

Where do I get a soil test in North Carolina?

NC State Extension directs gardeners to the NC Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services soil lab. Sample boxes and forms are available at any county Cooperative Extension center. Retest every two to three years.

Why do my tomatoes and beans stop producing in midsummer?

NC State Extension's Central North Carolina Planting Calendar notes that even warm-season crops temporarily stop bearing during heat waves in the mid 90s °F. They usually resume as temperatures ease.

Sources