How to Grow Okra

Heat is the whole game

Okra is a hibiscus relative from Africa that thrives where summers are long and hot. Clemson gives 75 to 90°F as its best growing range, and Utah State notes that yields are highest when temperatures stay above 65°F. Frost injures it, and cold soil does more damage than gardeners expect: root rots and damping-off in cold, wet ground are the most serious okra problems, according to Clemson.

Give it full sun and well-drained soil. Sandy loam rich in organic matter is ideal, but nearly any soil works if it doesn’t stay wet. Clemson targets a pH of 5.8 to 6.5, and Utah State 6.0 to 7.0. In Utah’s alkaline soils (pH 7.0 to 8.5), Utah State suggests sulfur or peat moss to bring the pH down. Alabama advises amending unimproved sandy or heavy clay soil with organic matter.

Planting

Sow outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after your last frost (see the dates for your zone above). Clemson and Maryland want the soil at least 65°F, and Clemson checks it at 4 inches deep; Utah State waits for 75°F. Clemson’s germination optimum is 70 to 95°F. The when to plant okra page covers regional windows in more detail.

Okra’s hard seed coat causes slow, uneven emergence. Soak seed before planting: Alabama soaks for 6 hours, Utah State overnight and Maryland 12 to 24 hours. Maryland also suggests scratching the seed with sandpaper. Clemson warns that soaking helps but won’t prevent seedling death in cold soil.

Plant ¾ inch deep (Clemson) to 1 inch (Utah State, Alabama). Many gardeners drop two or three seeds per spot and thin to the strongest. Final spacing depends on the source and the plant size:

• Clemson: 9 to 12 inches apart in rows 3 to 6 feet apart.
• Maryland: 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
• Utah State: 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on variety size, in rows 3 feet apart.

Clemson stresses that you should leave only one plant per spot, because crowding severely cuts yields.

In short-season areas, start transplants indoors: 5 to 6 weeks before frost danger ends (Maryland), 4 to 5 weeks before transplanting (Utah State) or up to 6 to 8 weeks (Alabama). Alabama transplants at 3 or 4 leaves after a week of hardening off. Black plastic mulch raises soil temperature and controls weeds, and Utah State credits it with better growth and production.

Varieties

• South Carolina (Clemson): Clemson Spineless 80, Lee, Annie Oakley II, Cajun Delight and the red-podded Burgundy, which turns green when cooked.
• Florida (UF/IFAS): Clemson Spineless, Emerald, Annie Oakley II and Cajun Delight.
• Utah and other cool, short-season areas (Utah State): Annie Oakley II, a compact hybrid, or other dwarf or early varieties.
• Containers (Wisconsin Extension): Carmine Splendor, Clemson Spineless and Porch Pick.

Feeding and watering

Okra balances leaf growth against pod production, and early nitrogen tips it toward leaves. Without a soil test, Clemson applies 25 to 50 pounds of 10-10-10 per 1,000 square feet before planting, and Utah State uses 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet. Then side-dress:

• Clemson: 1 to 2 pounds of calcium nitrate per 100 feet of row at 3 to 4 weeks and again at 6 to 8 weeks after planting, with more later if rain is heavy or the harvest runs long.
• Utah State: ¼ pound of 21-0-0 per 100 square feet when pods begin to size, repeated 4 weeks later.
• Alabama: an all-purpose fertilizer 4 to 6 inches from the stem after the first harvest.

Okra handles dry spells better than most vegetables, but water increases yield. Alabama recommends 1 to 2 inches a week, more in hot weather, and Utah State 1½ to 2 inches every 7 to 10 days for maximum yields. Clemson wants the soil moistened 6 inches deep, since light watering keeps roots shallow, and calls pod set and development the critical period. Water in the morning, ideally by drip. A 2- to 3-inch organic mulch conserves moisture and smothers weeds.

Maryland pinches the growing tips when plants reach 24 inches to encourage branching and more pods.

Ratooning in the South

Where summers are long, production often slows in the hottest, driest weeks. Between mid-July and mid-August, Clemson suggests cutting plants back to 6 to 12 inches above the ground, applying 2 to 3 pounds per 100 feet of row of a fertilizer with a 1:2 nitrogen-to-potassium ratio (such as 5-0-10), and watering frequently. Expect new pods in about 4 to 6 weeks, continuing until frost.

Problems

• Root-knot nematodes: stunted, yellowing plants with galled roots, a serious problem in sandy soils. Pull suspect plants to check, remove infested roots, and don’t plant okra after tomatoes, peppers, squash or sweet potatoes (Clemson).
• Aphids: cluster under leaves and leave sticky honeydew, often tended by ants. Knock them off with a strong water spray or use insecticidal soap. Clemson notes that limiting nitrogen helps.
• Stink bugs and leaffooted bugs: cause twisted, distorted pods. Corn earworms feed on pods.
• Small pods rotting after the flower drops: the cause is unknown, but Clemson says full sun, good air movement and proper spacing reduce it.
• Seedlings dying after emergence: root rot or damping-off from cold, wet soil. Plant later, in well-drained beds.

Harvest

Pods are ready 1 to 3 days after the flower opens, at about 2 to 4 inches long (Clemson prefers 2 to 3 inches). They grow fast, so pick at least every other day. A missed pod becomes woody and restricts further flowering, so cut off any overgrown pods even if you won’t eat them. Round-podded varieties stay tender at larger sizes.

Many plants have spines, so wear gloves and cut pods with pruners or a knife; the branches are brittle and break easily. Properly fed, watered and picked, plants bear for up to about 12 weeks (Clemson), and Maryland expects 10 to 15 pounds per 10-foot row. Store pods unwashed in a bag in the refrigerator at 45 to 50°F, and use them within a week, before they pit and darken.