How to Grow Centipedegrass

Where centipedegrass grows

Centipedegrass reached the United States in 1916 from seed in the luggage of Frank Meyer, a USDA plant explorer who disappeared on his fourth trip to China (Clemson). It was first used on low-maintenance cemeteries, earning the nicknames “lazy man’s grass” and “poor man’s grass.” Clemson says it is well adapted to the coastal plain and lower piedmont of the southern United States.

UF/IFAS calls it the most common home lawn grass in the Florida Panhandle and well suited to central and north Florida. Nematodes have historically limited it on south Florida’s sandy soils. Texas A&M considers it best adapted to East Texas, and NC State says it is grown mostly east of Interstate 95 in North Carolina. Freeze tolerance is poor, so it thins out to the north. In Tennessee, the limited hardiness of common centipedegrass has restricted its use, though the cold-tolerant TifBlair has been planted in various parts of the state (Tennessee Extension).

The soil it wants

Centipedegrass prefers what most lawns dislike: acidic, infertile soil. UF/IFAS gives a pH range of 4.5-6.5 and warns of severe yellowing above 6.5-7.0. If your soil is alkaline, centipedegrass may simply be the wrong grass. Lime is rarely needed. Clemson adds that it needs moderately to well-drained soil; heavy clay or muck will not suit it without serious drainage work. It is also sensitive to high phosphorus. Where a soil test shows medium or higher phosphorus, Clemson uses a slow-release 15-0-15 at planting instead of a high-phosphorus starter fertilizer.

Seed, sod, plugs or sprigs

Centipedegrass can be grown from seed, sod, plugs or sprigs. UF/IFAS says good, weed-free sod gives the best-quality lawn fastest and is less vulnerable to stress. Texas A&M also prefers sod because seeding is so much slower. Plugs and sprigs leave bare soil that weeds quickly claim, since centipede spreads only by slow aboveground runners. Scout the gaps and pull weeds until the grass fills in.

Seed is cheap to use because so little is needed. UF/IFAS sows 4 ounces per 1,000 sq ft and NC State ¼-½ lb, mixed with sand so the tiny seed spreads evenly. UF/IFAS asks for seed with at least 90% purity and 85% germination. Rake the seed in lightly and keep the seedbed moist but not soggy. NC State waters lightly several times a day for 28 days. UF/IFAS suggests a light, weed-free straw mulch covering 50-75% of the soil to limit erosion. Expect patience. UF/IFAS gives up to two to three weeks to germinate plus six to eight weeks to establish, and NC State says a seeded lawn can take up to three years to look uniform.

Among improved varieties, Clemson says only TifBlair is currently sold as seed. For South Carolina it recommends Santee for the lower third of the state and Covington everywhere except the Upstate.

When to plant centipedegrass

Plant in late spring to early summer, once the soil holds about 65-70°F. The dates for your zone above start roughly five to ten weeks after your average last spring frost. NC State replants in May, or once daytime temperatures stay above 60°F. UF/IFAS seeds from April through July, Tennessee from May 1 to June 30, and Clemson targets May 1-14 for warm-season seeding in South Carolina. Do not seed in fall: UF/IFAS warns the seedlings may not establish well enough to survive winter cold.

Watering new sod and plugs

UF/IFAS gives a step-down schedule:

1. For the first 7-10 days, water two or three times a day in brief runs of 5-10 minutes.
2. For the next 7-10 days, water once a day with ¼ inch.
3. For the following week, water every other day with ¼-½ inch.
4. After about 30 days, switch to normal watering.

Start mowing once a gentle tug no longer lifts the sod or plugs, usually after two to three weeks.

Mowing

Clemson recommends 1.5-2 inches, UF/IFAS 1.5-2.5 inches, and NC State 1-2 inches, never letting it grow past 2.5 inches. Mow every 7-14 days with a sharp rotary mower and remove no more than one-third of the blade. Leave the clippings; UF/IFAS says they break down and do not cause thatch. UF/IFAS says mowing at the right height deepens roots, which helps the grass resist drought and nematodes. NC State warns never to burn off centipedegrass to clear debris.

Fertilizing: less is more

NC State says centipedegrass has the lowest nitrogen needs of the common lawn grasses. UF/IFAS puts it at about half what other Florida lawn grasses need, in one to three applications from green-up through fall. Don’t feed before April 15 in north Florida or mid-May in North Carolina, and make the last feeding by mid-September in north Florida or early October in central Florida. Clemson’s total for the year is 0-2 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. NC State adds a potassium application four to six weeks before the first frost.

Its natural color is a pale, Granny Smith apple green. Pushing it darker with nitrogen reduces cold tolerance, builds thatch from its slow-to-decay stolons, and feeds centipedegrass decline. For yellowing, use iron, not more nitrogen.

Watering an established lawn

Centipedegrass is shallow-rooted. Clemson warns that light, frequent watering keeps roots shallow and weak. Water only when the grass shows stress: folded, blue-gray leaves or lingering footprints. Then soak the soil to about 6 inches, applying ½-¾ inch per UF/IFAS or about 1 inch per Clemson, and let it dry before watering again. Sources differ on drought: UF/IFAS and Clemson rate its drought tolerance good, and it survives dry spells by going dormant and brown. NC State and Texas A&M, on the other hand, say it does not tolerate prolonged drought.

Shade, traffic and winter overseeding

Centipedegrass grows in full sun to moderate shade but not heavy shade (NC State). It forms a loose turf with poor wear tolerance and does not handle heavy traffic or compacted soil. It is sensitive to some herbicides, including 2,4-D, so read labels. Clemson advises against overseeding it with ryegrass for winter color, because the extra water, fertilizer and shading damage it the following spring.

Common problems

• Centipedegrass decline. Patches fail to green up in spring, usually in lawns given heavy nitrogen for several years. Stolons ride up on thatch, never root, and are killed by cold. Feed lightly, mow at the right height, and remove thatch over ½ inch.
• Iron chlorosis. Yellowing is worst in early spring and on soils above about pH 6.5.
• Ring nematodes. They cause serious root damage on sandy soils. The turf wilts even when watered.
• Ground pearls. These root-feeding scale insects have no effective control products (UF/IFAS).
• Other insects. Spittlebugs, mole crickets, sod webworms, white grubs and lawn caterpillars all damage it.
• Diseases. Large patch shows up sporadically (UF/IFAS), and NC State lists fairy ring.
• Thatch. Power-rake in late May if thatch tops ½ inch. NC State uses a 2- or 3-inch blade spacing and warns that 1-inch spacing can badly damage the lawn.