Gardening in Maine: zones, frost dates and when to plant
Maine gardening is a race against a short frost-free season. Coastal gardens start ahead of central Maine and northern gardens start behind it, and UMaine Cooperative Extension advises early varieties, plastic mulch, row covers and lime where a soil test shows the need.
Hardiness zones in Maine
Cities in Maine
| City | Zone | Typical last frost | Typical first frost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Portland | 6a | Apr 26 | Oct 15 |
Coastal, central and northern Maine
University of Maine Cooperative Extension’s Planting Chart for the Home Vegetable Garden sets its dates for central Maine. It gives two dates for each crop, the earliest and latest safe planting. From there the rule is simple. On the coast, plant 10 to 14 days earlier. In northern Maine, plant 10 to 14 days later. That puts coastal and northern gardens three to four weeks apart, the biggest regional difference in Maine vegetable gardening.
Start with the frost dates for your city above, then use the chart’s offset for your part of the state.
The short season is the main limit
UMaine Extension’s Bulletin #2752, Extending the Gardening Season, puts it directly. Most vegetables are sensitive to cold and grow only in the frost-free months, which keeps Maine’s growing season short. Everything else follows from that: which varieties you choose, when you transplant and how you protect plants at each end of the season.
Choose varieties with the season in mind. Bulletin #2190, Vegetable Varieties for Maine Gardens, advises northern Maine gardeners to grow only early varieties of warm-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers and melons, so they ripen before frost. Farther south, early and midseason varieties both ripen in most years. Some of the bulletin’s picks:
- Tomatoes: extra-early Early Cascade, New Girl and First Lady; early First Pik, Royal Mountie and Sunstart. For small fruit, Sun Gold, Matt’s Wild, Juliet and Sweet Million.
- Sweet corn: early yellow Kandy Kwik and Seneca Horizon; bicolor Seneca Arrowhead and Fleet.
- Peppers: thin-walled sweet Ace, New Ace and Giant Marconi; thick-walled Red Knight, Boynton Bell and King Arthur.
The bulletin also recommends checking seed catalogs for disease resistance. For tomatoes and peppers, look for resistance to Fusarium, Verticillium and tobacco mosaic virus.
Planting in sequence
UMaine’s “Keep Your Garden Growing” guide spreads planting across four stages:
- Early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked: broccoli and cabbage transplants, plus seeds of endive, lettuce, peas, radish, spinach, turnip and onion sets. Beans, corn and early potatoes follow about a week later.
- Midspring, about two weeks before the average last frost: cauliflower transplants and seeds of beets, carrots, parsnips and Swiss chard.
- Early summer, when soil and sun are warm: tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, plus cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins and winter potatoes.
- Late June into early August: another round of beets, carrots, lettuce and radish, with broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower set out in early August. Transplants go in later than seed because hot weather slows their growth.
Don’t let a warm spell in late April fool you. UMaine Extension says head lettuce, fennel, chicory, onions, shallots and scallions can go in then. Most other seedlings should wait, and all need hardening off before transplanting. If you plant early anyway, mulch and use floating row covers or cold frames on cold nights.
Stretching the season
Bulletin #2752 covers the main tools Maine gardeners use to add weeks at either end of the season:
- Black plastic mulch warms the soil less than clear plastic but suppresses weeds. Press it flat against the soil so it warms well. Clear plastic belongs only on fallow ground for solarizing, where it can heat soil to as high as 125°F. Around crops it can cause heat injury.
- Row covers raise daytime air temperature around plants by up to 10°F and hold residual heat overnight. Secure the edges, and remove the covers when crops need pollinating.
- Cold frames protect from frost better than floating row covers and are useful for hardening off seedlings. Open them on sunny days so they don’t overheat.
- Hoop houses and hot caps add protection for earlier harvests. Hoop houses cost more and take more work.
Acid soil and soil testing
UMaine Extension notes that Maine soils tend to be acid, and soil that is too acid limits how well many plants grow. Bulletin #2286, Testing Your Soil, explains how to find out what yours needs. Test kits are available from your county UMaine Extension office or from the Analytical Lab and Maine Soil Testing Service at the University of Maine. Sample in early spring once the frost is out of the ground, or in fall before the ground freezes. Results take about two to three weeks and include lime and fertilizer recommendations. Home garden samples are also checked for lead. Test at least every three years.
A typical Maine planting calendar
For a place with Maine's middle frost dates (last frost around May 6, first frost around October 5). Use a city page or your ZIP code for dates where you live.
January
Start indoors: onions
February
Start indoors: broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, leeks, onions, oregano, parsley, petunias, ranunculus, rosemary, snapdragons
March
Start indoors: black-eyed susans, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, chives, cilantro, collard greens, ginger, kale, leeks, lettuce, marigolds, nasturtiums, oregano, parsley, peppers, petunias, ranunculus, rosemary, sage, snapdragons, spinach, swiss chard
Plant or sow outdoors: black-eyed susans, blueberries, garlic, grapes, grass seed, hollyhocks, onions, peas, poppies, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, turnips, wildflowers
April
Start indoors: basil, celery, cilantro, eggplants, ginger, marigolds, nasturtiums, peppers, ranunculus, spinach, swiss chard, tomatoes, zinnias
Plant or sow outdoors: beets, black-eyed susans, blackberries, blueberries, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, chives, cilantro, collard greens, dahlias, dill, figs, garlic, gladioli, grapes, grass seed, hollyhocks, kale, leeks, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas, poppies, radishes, ranunculus, raspberries, rhubarb, roses, snapdragons, spinach, strawberries, swiss chard, turnips, wildflowers
May
Start indoors: basil, cantaloupes, cosmos, cucumbers, okra, pumpkins, watermelons, winter squash, zucchini
Plant or sow outdoors: asparagus, beets, carrots, chives, cilantro, dahlias, dill, figs, garden mums, ginger, gladioli, grapes, green onions, kentucky bluegrass, lavenders, leeks, lettuce, lilies, marigolds, mints, nasturtiums, oregano, parsley, perennial ryegrass, petunias, potatoes, ranunculus, rosemary, roses, sage, snapdragons, spinach, sunflowers, sweet corn, sweet peas, swiss chard, tall fescue, thyme, zinnias
June
Plant or sow outdoors: asparagus, basil, bermudagrass, cantaloupes, celery, centipedegrass, cosmos, cucumbers, eggplants, garden mums, ginger, green beans, green onions, kentucky bluegrass, okra, peanuts, peppers, perennial ryegrass, pumpkins, st. augustinegrass, sweet peas, sweet potatoes, tall fescue, tomatoes, watermelons, winter squash, zoysiagrass, zucchini
Plant for fall: brussels sprouts
July
Plant or sow outdoors: bermudagrass, celery, centipedegrass, cosmos, green onions, okra, peanuts, st. augustinegrass, sweet potatoes, zoysiagrass
Plant for fall: bearded irises, beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, collard greens, lettuce, peas, radishes, snapdragons, spinach, swiss chard, turnips
August
Plant for fall: azaleas, bearded irises, beets, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, clematis, coneflowers, crocuses, daffodils, daylilies, grass seed, hostas, hydrangeas, kale, lettuce, lilies, ornamental alliums, peonies, radishes, roses, saffron, snapdragons, spinach, swiss chard, tulips, turnips
September
Plant for fall: crocuses, daffodils, daylilies, grass seed, hostas, hyacinths, kale, lilies, ornamental alliums, peonies, radishes, saffron, tulips
October
Plant for fall: crocuses, daffodils, garlic, hyacinths, lilies, ornamental alliums, peonies, tulips
Questions
Which tomato varieties does UMaine Extension recommend for a short season?
Bulletin #2190 lists Early Cascade, New Girl and First Lady as extra-early tomatoes and First Pik, Royal Mountie and Sunstart as early ones. In northern Maine, UMaine advises growing only early varieties of tomatoes, peppers and melons so they ripen before frost.
Do Maine gardens need lime?
Often, but only a soil test can confirm it. UMaine Extension notes that Maine soils tend to be acid. The Maine Soil Testing Service reports pH and gives lime and fertilizer recommendations.
How much do row covers help in Maine?
UMaine's Bulletin #2752 says row covers can raise daytime air temperature around plants by up to 10°F and hold some heat at night. They also give some wind, frost and pest protection, but must come off for crops that need insect pollination.
Is late April too early to set out vegetable seedlings in Maine?
For most crops, yes. UMaine Extension says head lettuce, fennel, chicory, onions, shallots and scallions can go in around late April. Most other seedlings should wait, and all should be hardened off first.
Sources
- Planting Chart for the Home Vegetable Garden · University of Maine Cooperative Extension
- Maine Vegetable Gardening: Keep Your Garden Growing — Plant from Spring to Fall · University of Maine Cooperative Extension
- Bulletin #2190, Vegetable Varieties for Maine Gardens · University of Maine Cooperative Extension
- Bulletin #2752, Extending the Gardening Season · University of Maine Cooperative Extension
- Bulletin #2286, Know Your Soil: Testing Your Soil · University of Maine Cooperative Extension
- Is late April a good time to plant vegetable seedlings? · University of Maine Cooperative Extension