When to Harvest Garlic
Harvest garlic when about half of its leaves have turned yellow or brown but the tops are not yet completely dry. For fall-planted garlic that is usually late June to July in the mid-Atlantic and Midwest and May to June in the Southeast. Dig a test bulb first. Harvest too early and the bulbs are small; too late and the wrappers split and the bulbs store poorly.
The signs that garlic is ready
Unlike onions, garlic does not flop over at the neck when it matures, so you have to read the leaves and check the bulbs. Look for:
- About half the leaves yellow or brown. This is the standard cue from Maryland, Wisconsin, NC State, Illinois and UF/IFAS. Illinois puts it another way as ready when five green leaves remain.
- Tops yellowing but not dried out. Utah State says to dig once the tops start to yellow or lean but before they are completely dry.
- A test bulb that looks full. Wisconsin and Oregon State both suggest digging one or two plants. Oregon State recommends starting in late June, slicing the bulb crosswise and harvesting when it has divided into plump cloves inside a thick, dry, papery skin. Oregon notes that bulbs are sometimes ready while the leaves are still mostly green.
Maturity varies by type. Wisconsin finds Artichoke softnecks mature first, hardnecks next and Silverskins last. Timing also matters more for hardnecks, which split open in the ground sooner than softnecks.
When that usually happens
In central Maryland the tops start dying back in late June to early July, with harvest around July 1. Illinois digs from June into July, depending on location. In North Carolina, fall-planted garlic is harvested in May and June, and Clemson describes early summer harvest in South Carolina. In warm-winter areas such as Florida and the low desert, garlic comes out in late spring or early summer. Watch the plants rather than the calendar. Wisconsin notes that dry spring weather makes garlic mature earlier, and smaller.
Stop watering when the leaves begin to yellow. Wet soil at the end stains the wrappers, encourages rot, and slows curing.
How to dig garlic
- Loosen the soil under the bulbs with a garden fork or spade.
- Lift each plant out of the loosened soil by its stem, as Wisconsin Extension describes.
- Knock or brush off the loose soil. Don’t wash the bulbs, and don’t scrub them hard.
- Handle them gently. Clemson and Oregon State both warn that bruised bulbs rot in storage.
- Keep the leaves and roots attached for curing.
If you want to braid softneck garlic, Oregon State suggests harvesting a little earlier, while the leaves are still green and flexible.
Curing
Curing dries the outer skins and neck so the bulb seals itself for storage. Put the whole plants somewhere shaded, warm and well ventilated, such as a carport, porch, barn or open garage. Spread them in a single layer on screens or racks, or hang them in small bundles. Keep them out of direct sun.
Curing times vary by source and weather: 1 to 2 weeks in Utah State and Maryland guidance, 2 to 3 weeks at Clemson, 3 to 4 weeks at Wisconsin and 4 to 6 weeks at Illinois. Garlic is cured when the neck is dry, the outer skin is papery and the roots are dry and brittle.
Then trim the roots close to the base and cut the stems to about ½ to 2 inches above the bulb, unless you are braiding. Rub off any remaining soil and peel away a dirty outer wrapper if needed.
Storage
Keep bulbs whole, because separated cloves spoil much faster. Store them dry and well ventilated in mesh bags, paper bags or shallow ventilated containers, one or two layers deep.
Sources disagree on temperature. Utah State recommends 32 to 40°F, and Maryland 32 to 38°F at about 65 percent relative humidity. Wisconsin says hardneck garlic keeps up to 7 months at 32°F. Oregon State and NC State say not to refrigerate, and Oregon State notes that cool, moist conditions start sprouting. The common ground is cool, dry and dark, protected from freezing and high humidity.
At room temperature, hardnecks keep about 3 to 4 months and softnecks about 6 to 8 months, according to Wisconsin. Maryland reports 6 to 9 months in a cool, dry basement.
Save the biggest, healthiest bulbs for replanting in fall. Wisconsin advises keeping planting stock at room temperature until planting time.
Green garlic and scapes
You don’t have to wait for mature bulbs. Green garlic, pulled in spring before bulbs form, can be used like scallions with a mild garlic flavor. Illinois suggests planting extra cloves close together and thinning them out this way. Hardneck scapes are picked in late spring while still curled and tender. Once they straighten or the flower opens they turn woody. Removing scapes also helps the bulbs size up.
Your dates for garlic
Set your ZIP code at the top of the page and we will work out when to plant garlic where you live, from the frost records of the nearest NOAA weather station. Your ZIP code is remembered on this device only.
How to grow garlicWhen to plant garlic
Questions
What happens if I harvest garlic too late?
The protective wrappers break down and the cloves start to separate, which lets disease in and shortens storage life. Hardnecks are more prone to this than softnecks. Illinois also warns that bulbs left too long can rot.
How long should garlic cure?
Sources range from 1 to 2 weeks (Utah State, Maryland) to 2 to 3 weeks (Clemson), 3 to 4 weeks (Wisconsin) and 4 to 6 weeks (Illinois). Cure until the necks are dry, the outer skins papery and the roots dry.
Should I store garlic in the refrigerator?
Sources differ. Utah State and Maryland favor cool storage near 32 to 40°F, but Oregon State and NC State say not to refrigerate; Oregon State notes that cool, moist conditions trigger sprouting. A cool, dry, airy spot such as a basement is the safe middle ground.
Should I wash garlic after digging?
No. Brush or gently knock off the soil and leave the bulbs unwashed, since moisture encourages storage disease.
Sources
- Garlic primer: planting, growing and harvesting · Oregon State University Extension Service
- How to Grow Garlic in Your Garden · Utah State University Extension
- Growing Garlic in a Home Garden · University of Maryland Extension
- Garlic, Allium sativum · University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension (Wisconsin Horticulture)
- Growing Garlic (info sheet) · University of Illinois Extension
- Onion, Leek, Shallot, & Garlic (HGIC) · Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center
- Allium sativum (Plant Toolbox) · NC State Extension
- Rhode Island Planting Calendar for Fruits and Vegetables · University of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension
- Garlic · University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions
- Vegetable Planting Calendar for Maricopa County (AZ1005) · University of Arizona Cooperative Extension